Introductions

Hello all anglers of all skill levels! From beginners to the advance! I’m beginning this blog in hopes of giving the best advice to beginning fisherman in the Northwest as I chase Salmon and Steelhead throughout the year.  I’ll be writing blogs about my trips, products, and of course the catch, as I learn the Northwest fisheries.

The majority of my fishing experience begins in Eastern Oregon where I consider myself an expert in the fisheries there. Growing up fishing abundant trout species and warm water fish. This included Rainbow Trout, Brook Trout, Cutthroat Trout, Crappie, Bass, Perch, and Catfish. I'm sure there's a species or two I missed, but you get the point.  I’m unfamiliar with the Northwest best fisheries: Salmon and Steelhead. Follow me as I build not only an informative blog, but a resource for all anglers.

May your lines be tight and your fishing trips successful as winter steelhead slow down and Chinook start arriving in our beautiful rivers.

Best of Luck!

For other tips and advice, check my links below. Not only is it informative, but will get you going in the right direction!

USEFUL LINKS

Get the Right Fishing Reel

Get the Right Fishing Rod

Fishing Gear: For the Elements

Tackle Basics: The Must Have Tools

Drift Fishing: A How-To Guide

Float Fishing: A How-To Guide

Questions? Comments? 

Contact me at patrickhvr@gmail.com

*Disclaimer: Products are personal recommendations. 

Gear: What Should I Wear On The River?

So your new to fishing in the great Northwest. You have no idea what and where to buy outdoor clothing. Here we will cover what is basics in the Northwest. We all know that it rains here, a lot. So being protected from the cold and elements will make for a pleasant day of fishing. No one likes being cold and wet. So here I'll provide you with the musts as far as protecting yourself from the unforgiving weather here in the Northwest.

Waders: There's a million pairs of waders out there. Starting at $69.99 and going upward of $600, getting the right pair for the right dollar amount is important to any consumer. The beginning fisherman won't want to spend a lot of money on waders right out the gate. A "good" set of waders will cost the average angler between $80 and $200. Some long johns underneath a pair of breathable waders is great in colder weather. Some things you should look for:

• Adjustable Straps
• Breathable
• Neoprene or plastic can get hot and quick, stay away from these
• Poor comfort
• Bootie Fit
• It sounds ridiculous, but one, you don't want uncomfertable feet, and two, it will increase the longevity of the wader if they fit properly. With all the walking we do to get to and from our fishing spots, chafing can cause problems.
• Seam Seals
• A proper seam should be overlapped, tapped, and glued
• These are weak points. Quality is important here.
• Research
• Look into the brand, consumer reviews, and make sure your getting the bang for your buck.

Good waders mean you stay dry. It's bad enough your in the rain, lets not get soggy. 

Wading Shoes: Good wading shoes should provide not only comfort, but good ankle support. They should provide traction, stability, and comfort throughout the day. And don't forget, a good wading shoe is also safe. You'll navigate rocks and slippery stream bottoms. No one wants to fall. Some things you should look for:

• Ankle support
• Probably my number one thing I look for. River bottoms are not smooth and you can expect to twist your ankle once or twice on any given fishing trip. Make sure this section of the shoe is rock solid.
• Drainage
• You want a shoe that moves water in and out freely. Cheaper boots will hold water. You don't want heavy feet.
• Tongue
• Make sure it's sewn so that it keeps your boot free from debris. Nothing is worse than a rock or sand in the boot.
• Soles
• Felt
• Felt is great for gripping slippery smooth rocks. The con for this sole is that they wear quickly if you do a lot of walking along trails.
• Rubber
• Good for walking long distances. There made up much like the bottom of a hiking shoe. 
• Sizing
• Go one size bigger then your normal hiking shoe. These have to slip over your waders booties. So if you can, try them on before you leave with your waders on.

Rain Coats: Rain coats that keep everything out are almost non existent unless you want to spend some serious money or get plastic industrial rain gear. But the idea is to keep the rain out. Always bring a change for your upper layer of clothing.  Some things you should look for:

• Seams
• Good seams keep water out. Overlapped, tapped, and glued seams are the best. Always check the quality.
• Material
• Most material repels water rather than keeps it completely out. Most standard raincoat fabrics are okay for the Northwest.
• Comfort
• You don't want a stiff jacket. Makes doing your normal tasks a chore. 

Remember, try them on, make sure they fit and are comfortable for you. Remember, you will most likely be wearing layers underneath a rain coat. So don't go to small here.

Some other things anglers should consider:

• Headwear 
• We loose most of our heat through our head so keep it nice and warm.
• Gloves
• Neoprene is good here.
• Sunglasses
• You can actually damage your eyes from the reflection on the water.
• Nitrate Gloves
• This keeps dies from baits and scents off your hands.
• Sunblock
• Sunburns suck, and so does skin cancer. Protect yourself from the sun.

And always bring a change of clothes. That means everything from the socks to the shirt. If you take a nasty spill in a river and fill your waders your risking hypothermia. Or if your waders decide to spring a leak, your in the same danger. Water here in the Northwest is cold. Make sure you have a back up plan. 

Having the proper gear isn't only comfort when your fishing but safe. I can't stress enough the cold and rain can get the best of you here. No one wants to cut there fishing trip short due to hypothermia or because someone is cold and miserable because they weren't expecting rain. It's not fun and not fun for your friends and family. So remember BE SAFE! Buying the right gear will keep you safe all season long.

For other tips and advice, check my links below. Not only is it informative, but will get you going in the right direction!

USEFUL LINKS

Get the Right Fishing Reel

Get the Right Fishing Rod

Fishing Gear: For the Elements

Tackle Basics: The Must Have Tools

Drift Fishing: A How-To Guide
Float Fishing: A How-To Guide

Questions? Comments?
Contact me at patrickhvr@gmail.com

*Disclaimer: Products are personal recommendations.

Reel Recommendations: Steelhead

We all have to start somewhere. I cover rod selection here Rod Selection For Beginners . Now it's time to cover a good spinning reel. So what should we look for in a reel?

A good reel will have metal components such as the gears inside and a good set of bearings. Another thing to look at is the reels ability to keep the elements out. I've heard tales of fisherman hooking the "big one" only to have the gears in reel completely disintegrate. And the equates to lost fish at any size, and no one wants that to happen to them. Another thing to account for is "backlash." Backlash is important for two reasons. It prevents tangles and when you get a bite, you don't want your reel to spin backwards. It could mean the difference between landing the big one or getting nothing at all.

I picked up a lot of reels. All brands from Okuma, Abu Garcia, Penn, but only one stuck out to me after spending a few hours at the reel display case. The Shimano Sedona 2500 FD. Why this reel?

It felt "tight" as I picked it up and played with the display model. No funny jiggles, noises, loose joints. After fishing with it for a day, I'm in love. This reel casts like butter. It's completely silent. Has a huge drag selection for super fine tuning. And has zero, and I mean zero backlash. This makes for immediate fish hook ups. The 6.2:1 gearing is great for river fishing and I had zero issues with knots or malfunctions. 

Now of course some of us have brand loyalties, or just prefer something different. But if your looking for at a good start, this reel, hands down, is the one of the best. Especially for the price. If your in a budget you can't go wrong. $59.99 at most retailers. 

Shimano Sedona 2500 FD specs:
Shimano Sedona 2500 FD

For other tips and advice, check my links below. Not only is it informative, but will get you going in the right direction!

USEFUL LINKS

Fishing Gear For The Elements

Reel Recommendations: Steelhead
Rod Recommendations: Steelhead

Float Fishing: A How-To Guide

Drift Fishing: A How-To Guide

Fishing Gear: Must Haves for Any Tackle Box

Questions? Comments?
Contact me at patrickhvr@gmail.com

*Disclaimer: Products are personal recommendations.

Float Fishing - How To Float Fish Jigs.

Float fishing is a great start as a beginner. Even the advanced angler uses this technique. In this post, I'll show you properly how to rig for float fishing and cover the things you need to be successful. If you need information on a rod, go here to my Get the Right Fishing Rod

Let's start with our shopping list:

Jigs: 1/8oz. is a good start. Stopping at a local outdoor store, they can help you in color choices. Family owned businesses have been at it for years. They know the rivers better than anyone. Don't be afraid to ask for help!

In line weights: 1/4 oz.

Floats: This is important. Make sure you have a well balanced float. Here's a little math equation for you beginners. 1/8oz. jig + 1/4 oz. in line weight = 3/8oz. float. I will cover why this is important a little later in the post.

Bobber Stops- a blood knot that you tie to your line to basically stop the float. Adjustable for fishing different depths.

Beads: Cushion for the bobber.

Main Line: 20 lb braided. The brighter the better. That way you can see if your keeping your line off the water. Now there is mixed reviews about what weight braided fishing line people should use. Some say 30lb. for cold fingers and it's natural ability to float. But in some waters in Oregon, we know that it's rough at times and regardless if your main line is floating on the water, waves and currents will still pull it. Go with personal preference here. Braided is also good on the environment. If your jig happens to get stuck on the bottom and you have to break off, your not littering your local rivers with feet of line. The leader will snap off at the weight, keeping litter down. Remember, respect your rivers.

Leader: 10-12lb Fluorocarbon

Cast above the hole or "seam" that you would like to fish. Not to far above you though. The idea is to have the float vertical as soon as it's across from you. The easiest way to tell that its vertical is by the position of your float. If its leaning, diving, floating sideways, your doing it wrong.

Now, back to why your float needs to be properly balanced. If a float is to light or too big, you won't be able to tell if your properly presenting your bait. Think of it like a small buoy. With the right weight, Your floats actions will tell you if your properly fishing. The weight below the float is sending you signals from below the water into the float on the surface of the water.  As a beginner this is very important. Think of a float as river bottom information expert.

If it's leaning, the probable cause is that your mainline is in the water. Usually being manipulated by the current. Keep that tip up and your line free of slack! If you see your float vertical but it's bobbing up and down in the water it means your jig is on the bottom. Fix that bobber stop. If the float is laying on it's side, that means your jig is sitting on the bottom. Adjust your bobber stop and try again. You want to be as vertical as possible for the best presentation. That means your jig is following the natural current and is more likely to produce a bite. You don't want your jig to bounce bottom either. The sweet spot is about a six inches to a foot off the bottom. Fish can't see up very well so you want to put it in there face.

If the float drops, set the hook!

For other tips and advice, check my links below. Not only is it informative, but will get you going in the right direction!

USEFUL LINKS

Get the Right Fishing Reel
Get the Right Fishing Rod
Fishing Gear: For the Elements
Tackle Basics: The Must Have Tools
Drift Fishing: A How-To Guide
Float Fishing: A How-To Guide


Questions? Comments?
Contact me at patrickhvr@gmail.com

*Disclaimer: Products are based on personal recommendation. 

Drift Fishing - How to Drift Fish: Steelhead and Salmon

I grew up drift fishing. It's a technique used by all fisherman, no matter the species, to catch fish. This should be one of the first techniques any fisherman learns. The idea is to give your bait a "tumbling" presentation as it floats down the river. You can find some information about rods here under my Get The Right Fishing Rod  post and a reels here under my Get The Right Fishing Reel post. Lets start with a shopping list:

Hooks: 

• For steelhead from size 2 to 1/0. Salmon 2/0 to 4/0. DO NOT buy cheap hooks. Spend some money. This will prevent the hook from bending out. No one wants to loose a fish to that. Also learn how to tie your own egg loops. Get yourself a leader storage container. Tie a bunch of pre-made leaders and be ready to go fishing. Egg loops are important to keep bait on. You can find out how to tie your own egg loops here: Link

Floats: 

• This isn't bobber or floats. This is corkies, foam balls, cheaters, and anything that keeps your bait suspended of the bottom. 

Weight: 

• Hollow core is the best here. Fill your box with assorted lengths. These can be easily snipped so that you can adjust the amount of weight you need to get to the bottom of the river. A snap swivel with a tag lead is the way to do it. About 1" of tag line is good to crimp your weight too. Thread the tag end through the hollow core and crimp it with a pair of pliers. This way if you snag bottom, you just pull the weight off without loosing your set up. It keeps your rigging time low and keeps our rivers free of line. Remember keep your rivers clean.

Swivels: 

• There's a couple different swivels you can use as far as the weight goes. You can do a 3 way swivel, tie your tag line to one eye and your leader to another. Or you can do a snap swivel that slides up and down your mainline with your mainline and leader connected to a barrel swivel. I prefer the snap swivel method with a bead between my snap swivel and barrel swivel. With a free moving weight, your bait can adjust to the contours of the river bottom. 

Line and Leader 

• It's good to stick to a mono line throughout the set up. This isn't like float fishing where your main line isn't in the water. Mono appears invisible in the water. Steelhead and Salmon can be line shy, especially in clear conditions. 10-15lb is good for Steelhead. Salmon depends on the species. 20-25lb is a safe bet. 

Corkie's, yarn balls, and foam float balls

Weight, swivels, beads and hooks. The Basics

Pre tied egg loops with corkies attached. Good to be prepared.

When you cast your freshly tied drift rig out, cast slightly upstream, but not to far upstream. If you cast to far upstream you'll hit bottom to fast and your bait won't be in the sweet spot. You want to "feel" your weight tagging the bottom as it drifts out in front of you. It's important that its tapping the bottom. You don't want it sitting on the bottom dragging through the rocks. If your properly fishing a drifting set up, it will feel like your "ticking" the bottom. This is ideal. If it drags or hangs up, reel in, snip some weight off your pencil lead, and try again.

Your presentation should resemble "food" tumbling through the current. If your weight is snagging on the bottom your bait is essentially stopping on the bottom, not appearing "natural." This is a proven technique and works. Once you've perfected it, you'll be pulling in more fish in no time. But remember practice makes perfect. It can get frustrating in the beginning.

For other tips and advice, check my links below. Not only is it informative, but will get you going in the right direction!

USEFUL LINKS

Get the Right Fishing Reel
Get the Right Fishing Rod
Fishing Gear: For the Elements
Tackle Basics: The Must Have Tools
Drift Fishing: A How-To Guide
Float Fishing: A How-To Guide

Questions? Comments?
Contact me at patrichvr@gmail.com

*Disclaimer: Products are based on personal recommendation. 

Rod Recommendations for the Beginner: Steelhead

So your a beginner. We've all been there. We have no clue on where to start and often consult websites, friends, and fishing pros at our local outdoor stores. There are many ways to fish steelhead. The most common being float fishing and drift fishing. As a beginner, these are the easiest to learn, but without the right fishing rod, your not doing it right. This translates to poor presentation and less fish. If you want to fish like the pros, use the right equipment. It's a start, and without the basics your not doing yourself any good. We all want to be successful while fishing and having the proper tools is a must.  So what rod should you use?

Lets start with length. Length is the most important when float fishing. Float fishing is using a bobber, called a float, an in line weight, and an artificial lure. These can be jigs, plastic worms on a jig head, or bait such as row or shrimp. I cannot stress enough rod length here. You have to keep your line off of the water for your bait presentation to be correct. And as I've stated before, presentation is everything. Good presentation equals more fish. 

So now to the important part: size. I recommend, and so does everyone else, a 10'6" rod for float fishing. Brand of course is at the users discretion, but there's a great company, Okuma, who makes rods tailored to fishing the Northwest. All local retailers carry this brand. I recommend shopping for them at local and family owned shops. There knowledge is unprecedented about local fisheries and these families have been in the business for years. A great place to start is Fisherman's Marine Outdoor. 

Now why the length? Most people, such as myself, are intimidated by the length. Especially me being a trout fisherman my whole life. The reason:

You need to keep your main-line off of the water. The length is to keep your rod tip up so that this doesn't happen. A vertical presentation is key and these rods are designed to do just that. If your main line is in the water, the current is actually "pulling" your float forward with the current, not allowing bait or lure a proper presentation. If your line is in the current, which in typical cases is ahead of the float/bobber, your presentation will be un-natural and underwater, will appear as if its being pulled forward or sideways. Now, this wouldn't look like natural bait floating down the water, would it?

Now if your on a budget, this is fine to drift fish as well. But best case scenario is a 9'0" casting rod. Of course as a beginner, casting rods aren't ideal and take a lot of practice. The reel is on top of the fishing pole versus a spinning reel that's under the rod. You run into back casting issues and nasty knots no one wants to untangle. If you don't have your line in the water, your not fishing. And nothing can ruin a day like messing with tangled up fishing gear. Not something I recommend for a beginner to try to learn and catch fish at the same time. So keep in mind, to keep the budget down, use your 10'6" rod. You can get a smaller spinning rod, but save your self some money and get your practice using one rod to become familiar with your rod. Once you become more advanced, add more rods to your arsenal. Using the 10'6" inch rod, your going to drift fish a little different by holding your rod more level instead of "tip up" like you would if you were float fishing.

Now one recommendation I do have if your going to drift fish on the same rod, is get yourself a spare spool for your reel. Most reel manufacturers make extra spools. You can find information about the reel I recommend here. Why? When drift fishing you want to use mono filament line for bait presentation. That is covered here in my Drift Fishing: A How-To Guide.

Okuma rods SST Float Drift: Okuma Salmon/Steelhead Rod SST

Fisherman's Marine Outdoor: Fisherman's Marine Outdoor Website

Fisherman's Marine Outdoor location via Google Maps: Fisherman's Marine Outdoor Location

For other tips and advice, check my links below. Not only is it informative, but will get you going in the right direction!

USEFUL LINKS

Get The Right Fishing Reel

Get the Right Fishing Rod

Fishing Gear: For the Elements

Tackle Basics: The Must Have Tools

Drift Fishing: A How-To Guide

Float Fishing: A How-To Guide

Questions? Comments?
Contact me at patrickhvr@gmail.com

*Disclaimer: Products are based on personal recommendation. 

Gear: Tackle Boxes, Tools, and Storage

As a beginning fisherman, it becomes a daunting task making sure your ready to go fishing. Packing light can make or break a trip. The idea is to pack light, but not to light, making sure you have everything you need. Nobody wants to haul a full size tackle box around with them when trying to walk river banks. And if you get invited on a boat; no one wants you to bring the entire store with you. Pack light, pack what your fishing for, and be ready to go.

While I was looking for a bag to carry my tackle in, I came across a huge selection. It seems that it's all about brand choice and the bells and whistles that you like. One brand stuck out to me though. Spiderwire. Why Spiderwire? There bags are in a good price range. Only one bag at local retailers cost over $100 and its the big daddy. Something you would keep in your trunk or garage. The bag I picked up was $29.99. It comes with one big box and you can fit three small boxes on top of those. Or one small box and a medium box, or two large boxes, or... well you get my point. You can swap a lot of tackle out of this little guy. The pockets are very specific. Let me give you a break down:

• Sunglasses Pocket
• Line/Leader Pocket
• Protected Scent Pocket (so if it leaks, it stays contained)
• Leatherman Holster
• Shaped Pocket for Tackle Boxes
• Rear Pocket for Miscellaneous 

Not to mention the other smaller pockets for your pliers, scissors, stringers, etc. This pack holds a lot. And would you believe me if I told you it was a sling pack? And its only $30? This little thing is amazing. It's light and great for walking conditions. It held everything I needed. And then some. I was even able to put two 1 liter bottles of water in the back pocket without the bag feeling "bulky." I could keep this on my back all day. With the sunny conditions, sweat wasn't an issue. It was very breathable. I'm really happy with this bag. No back issues or complaints from me.

Protective Scent Pouch. Keeping the Scent in so it doesn't get out.

Good bag designs.

Plenty of box storage in pre-fitted pockets.

Tools


There are some essential tools you must have to be a successful fisherman. Below is a list of things you should always have in your bag.

• Long Shank Needle Nose Pliers
• Used to remove hooks from fish. 
• Crimp weights
• Cut weights
• Fingernail Clippers
• Cut tag lines
• Cut braided line
• Small Scissors
• Cut tag lines
• Cut braided line
• Nitrate Gloves
• Protects your hands from scents and dies
• Leatherman
• All purpose, duh
• Pen
• All fish caught in Oregon MUST be recorded on the harvest tag
• Keep a cheater card with you to know how to fill out your harvest tag properly
• Stringer
• Stay away from plastic ones here, braided rope is much better for the environment
• Fillet Knife
• Filleting your fish while its fresh is important
• Plastic Ziploc Bags
• Store row, otherwise known as eggs
• Store fillets
• Grocery Store Bags
• Pick up your garbage!
• If you see garbage pick up a piece, it helps keep our rivers and streams at there best
• If your a smoker pick up your butts! No one like seeing a shore littered with cigarette butts! 
• Please keep Oregon green by picking up for yourself. I can't stress this enough
• Lighter
• You might ask why this is important. Simple. Survival. If your friend falls in freezing water you can start a fire. If you get lost you can start a fire. You can start a fire to signal people, you can start a fire to cook food. People get lost, people get cold. Be safe. Be ready. 

These are just the basics and are must haves for any fishing trip. All of this can be picked up at local fishing stores. Remember, shop local, they have the best advice.

Spiderwire Utility Box Sling Bag Information: Spiderwire Utility Box Sling Bag

For other tips and advice, check my links below. Not only is it informative, but will get you going in the right direction!

USEFUL LINKS

Get the Right Fishing Reel
Get the Right Fishing Rod
Fishing Gear: For the Elements
Tackle Basics: The Must Have Tools
Drift Fishing: A How-To Guide
Float Fishing: A How-To Guide


Questions? Comments?
Contact me at patrickhvr@gmail.com

*Disclaimer: Products are based on personal recommendation. 

My First Trip, Can We Say Disappointing?

So I hit the river solo for the first time in 7 years in search of some late winter steelhead. Fishing reports were great and I had high hopes for catching late season winter steelhead. The weather was amazing and the river was buzzing with numerous fishermen hoping to set a hook on one of Oregon’s best fisheries: Steelhead.  Unfortunately the rapid decreasing water flow, pressure, and super clear conditions made for a poor day of fishing. It was hard to find a deep hole that wasn’t being fished by someone else, or flat out didn’t produce any fish.  

 I’m a novice fisherman in the Northwest at best, with all my expertise being in Eastern Oregon trout and warm water fisheries. I was trying new jigs and recommended baits and lures, even exploring some on my own. This is one jig I would never recommend to anyone. As anyone in Oregon knows, most of our rivers are rocky. And in order to fish these rivers you have to fish the rocks. It’s common sense. This rule applies to almost all river fishing situations.  I was deeply disappointed in some jigs I had purchased for my fishing trip. Specifically Beau Mac’s Marabou 1/8oz. jigs.

These are beautifully crafted jigs. Don’t get me wrong. But here was my issue. I noticed while exploring different depths in new fishing holes, I noticed that after 3 or 4 casts the paint was chipping of the heads of the jigs while I was adjusting my float to the proper depth. This was in slow and fast moving water. Even in deep holes where boulders are common. I fished a hole that was 12 plus feet deep and still had paint chipping off on the jig head itself.  This was a disappointment. With a price point between $2.19 and 2.99 a piece, you would expect a little better durability out of these jigs. I do not reccomend these jigs to the new angler on a new river. I'm sure people have great success with these jigs, but if your a novice don't try these.

Jig fresh out of the package compared to a fished jig

Damaged Jig after 3-5 casts

As a beginner, this becomes very disappointing. You’re trying to “learn” the water and catch fish at the same time. But I found myself upset with this jigs performance. Especially as a beginner. Going through ten jigs in one day not only hurts your wallet, but leaves a bad impression on your trip as well as a product. You can’t miss these jigs in any sporting goods store. There in a bright orange package, drawing the angler to their product. They even fooled me. When you look at the shelf your eyes naturally drawn to the distinctive packaging. I thought “Oooooo…. shiny…” This was a mistake. I made an even larger mistake by not picking up there competitors jigs. And thus putting myself in a situation where I shot myself in the foot. 

On a sunny day like we had this weekend and clear water conditions, this makes for a very poor presentation in the water.  When I switched to a pink worm on a Gamakatsu jig head, (1/8oz. and 1/16oz.) I had zero issue with paint coming off the jig head and they fished wonderfully. I had my two bites on this set up. One early A.M. with about a 10 second hook-up (which apparently wasn’t set well enough) and another hard hit while I was drift fishing, (this time without a jig-head) but missed the hook set while trying to move down some rocks along the bank.

All in all, it was a beautiful day out on the water. I had high hopes in getting some tight line, but we all get skunked once in a while. Although steelhead fishing will almost become nonexistent as we move through April, spring Chinook is just around the corner. Stay tuned and follow me as I fish the Northwest as a novice. Stop by to get tips and advice as I figure things out on my own. 


For other tips and advice, check my links below. Not only is it informative, but will get you going in the right direction!

USEFUL LINKS

Get the Right Fishing Reel
Get the Right Fishing Rod
Fishing Gear: For the Elements
Tackle Basics: The Must Have Tools
Drift Fishing: A How-To Guide
Float Fishing: A How To Guide

Questions? Comments? 
Contact me at patrickhvr@gmail.com

*Disclaimer: Products are based on personal recommendation.